At the beginning of 2025, a new climbing crag was developed above the town of Buggerru, in southwestern Sardinia.
The sector is called "Petit Paris," in reference to the nickname given to Buggerru during the mining era. This new sector features nine routes with grades ranging from 5a to 6b.
The bolting was done by the climbers of Buggerru, especially Sandro Chessa from Mormora Tour. The hardware used consists of 316L stainless steel bolts, the best steel for crags near the sea. In fact, the crag offers a stunning view over Buggerru and the entire gulf, from San Nicolò to Capo Pecora.
To reach the crag, park in a pull-off along Provincial Road 83. Coming from Nebida, shortly after the hairpin turn that overlooks the scenic viewpoint, the pull-off is on the right. From there, walk back along the road (westward) for about 200 meters until you see a trail on the left. Follow it; the first section is slightly steep, passing under the rockfall protection net. In about five minutes, you’ll reach the sector.
The routes are:
1 - Posta del Lupo 6a+
2 - Balenottero 5b
3 - Faraglioni 6a
4 - Arco dei Baci 6a+
5 - Nido dell'aquila 6b
6 - Piazzaletto 5a
7 - Gli sbirri 5b
8 - Il forno 5c
9 - La Torre 6a+
The routes range in length from 10 to 20 meters. The sector is in the shade in the afternoon.
For more information, feel free to contact me.
